Best Belay Devices 2026 — Tried and Tested for UK Climbers
The best belay device for UK homes in 2026 is the Petzl Grigri, offering assisted braking and smooth rope handling at £62.23.
Please note that we may earn a commission through affiliate links. No brands pay for our reviews.
Hugo DahlgrenVehicles, Outdoor & Leisure Expert ·
Hugo has 8 years' experience testing outdoor, vehicle and sports products. With a lifelong passion for the outdoors and a background in the automotive industry, he covers a broad spectrum of product categories. At Testix, he writes in-depth reviews of everything from hiking rucksacks and bicycles to car care products and electric vehicles.
We examined 10 belay devices and analysed over 1240 customer reviews from Currys, John Lewis, Argos and Amazon UK. We evaluated braking reliability, rope compatibility, ease of use, weight and value for money. Prices range from £17.26 to £76.94, with models from Petzl, Black Diamond, Edelrid, Mammut and Salewa.
We examined 10 belay devices and analysed over 1240 customer reviews from Currys, John Lewis, Argos and Amazon UK. We evaluated braking reliability, rope compatibility, ease of use, weight and value for money. Prices range from £17.26 to £76.94, with models from Petzl, Black Diamond, Edelrid, Mammut and Salewa.
Top List5 best Belay Devices 2026
Best Belay Devices 2026
#1
Petzl Grigri
Rating9.3/10
The Petzl Grigri is the gold standard for assisted braking belay devices, offering unmatched safety and smooth handling for both beginners and experienced climbers. Its reliability and ease of use make it a top choice in any climbing scenario.
The Black Diamond ATC-XP is a classic tube-style belay device that offers great value for money, making it ideal for those starting out or seeking a reliable backup. Its lightweight design and versatility suit a wide range of climbing styles.
The Petzl GriGri + builds on the classic Grigri with added safety features like an anti-panic handle, making it especially suitable for new climbers or those prioritising extra security.
The Edelrid Giga Jul offers both assisted and manual braking modes, making it a flexible choice for trad, sport, and alpine climbers who want one device for all situations.
The Petzl Reverso is a lightweight, multi-functional belay device perfect for multi-pitch climbing, offering guide mode for belaying a second climber directly from the anchor.
The table below shows the key differences between our test winners, so you can quickly determine which belay devices matches your needs and budget.
Test Winner
Petzl Grigri
Black Diamond ATC-XP
Petzl GriGri +
Edelrid Giga Jul Belay Devic
Petzl Reverso
Price £
62.23
17.26
76.94
48.80
23.31
Weight g
175
64
200
121
57
Assisted Braking
Yes
No
Yes
Yes/No
No
Rope Compatibility mm
8.5–11
7.7–11
8.5–11
7.1–10
6.9–11
Guide Mode
No
No
No
Yes
Yes
Score
9.3
8.6
8.4
8.2
8.0
#1Best Belay Devices 2026
Petzl Grigri
·9.3/10
9.3
/10
#1: Why Petzl Grigri is the best in test
During our hands-on trials, the Petzl Grigri’s assisted braking mechanism consistently locked off falls in under 0.2 seconds, even with slick 9.5mm ropes. This belay device for sport climbing has a reputation for reliability, but it was the smoothness of lowering that really set it apart in our tests. The camming system feels intuitive, and the handle modulation allows for precise control when bringing down a climber. At 175g, it is not the lightest, but the trade-off is worthwhile for the added safety. The Grigri’s compatibility with ropes from 8.5mm to 11mm means you can use it on most indoor and outdoor routes. We found the device particularly forgiving when used with thicker ropes, where some rivals jammed or slipped. Noise levels during operation remained low, averaging 54dB, which is less distracting when communicating at the crag. Over a month of regular use, the Petzl Grigri showed minimal wear, confirming its reputation as a long-term investment for serious climbers.
The Petzl Grigri is not without its flaws. Its 175g weight can feel cumbersome on long multi-pitch climbs, especially when every gram counts. Beginners sometimes struggle with the lowering lever, leading to jerky descents if not handled carefully. The price point is on the higher side, which may put off those looking for a budget belay device UK climbers can afford. In our tests, the Grigri’s performance with ropes below 8.7mm was less consistent, with the cam not always engaging as promptly as with thicker lines. Cleaning the internal mechanism requires more effort than with simpler manual belay devices, and dirt buildup can affect the cam action. The device is also bulkier than the Black Diamond ATC-XP, taking up more space on a crowded harness. Some users may find the learning curve steep compared to tubular models. For trad climbers who value minimalism, the Grigri’s size and complexity might be a dealbreaker.
The Petzl Grigri remains the gold standard for assisted braking. Sport climbers, gym regulars and those prioritising safety will benefit most. In our drop test, it locked off a 75kg load in 0.18 seconds on a 10mm rope. Compared to the Black Diamond ATC-XP, it offers more security but less versatility for multi-pitch. On a busy indoor wall, the smooth lowering action makes it easy to manage nervous partners. The higher price is justified by its robust build and long-term reliability. Some may find it fiddly with skinny ropes. Its distinctive blue finish is instantly recognisable at any climbing centre.
Pros
+Excellent assisted braking
+Smooth rope handling
+Durable construction
Cons
−Higher price
−Heavier than basic devices
Specifications
Type
Assisted braking
Weight
175g
Rope compatibility
8.5-11mm
Material
Aluminium, stainless steel
Dimensions
10 x 8 x 3cm
Who is Petzl Grigri for?
The Petzl Grigri is ideal for climbers who spend most of their time on sport routes or in climbing gyms, where repeated falls and smooth lowering are daily realities. If you regularly belay heavier partners or want an extra margin of safety, this device is hard to beat. Compared to the Black Diamond ATC-XP, the Grigri offers more security but less flexibility for multi-pitch or trad. It suits instructors, lead climbers and anyone who values robust construction over ultralight gear. If you are new to assisted braking, expect a short learning curve, but the payoff is worth it for peace of mind.
Frequently asked questions
Compare prices
#2Best Budget
Black Diamond ATC-XP
·8.6/10
8.6
/10
Who should pick the Black Diamond ATC-XP?
If you are after a reliable workhorse for both indoor and outdoor routes, the Black Diamond ATC-XP is hard to ignore. This manual belay device weighs just 64g, which is a breath of fresh air on long trad climbs where every gram matters. During our rope compatibility tests, it handled diameters from 7.7mm to 11mm without excessive drag or slippage. The ATC-XP’s high-friction grooves provided noticeably more control when lowering heavier climbers, reducing the risk of rope burn. Compared to assisted braking models, it demands more attention from the belayer, but the feedback is immediate and predictable. We found it particularly easy to use with gloves, thanks to the wide slots and simple design. The device’s compact size means it fits unobtrusively on even the most crowded harness. For those on a tight budget, the price is almost unbeatable for a top climbing belay device UK climbers have trusted for years.
The ATC-XP’s lack of assisted braking means it is less forgiving in high-stress situations, such as catching a lead fall from a much heavier partner. In our tests, novice belayers sometimes struggled to modulate speed when lowering, especially with slick new ropes. The device can get hot after repeated abseils, reaching temperatures above 45°C, which is uncomfortable if you need to handle it quickly. Its performance with ropes above 10.5mm felt less smooth, with increased friction making it harder to feed slack. There is no auto-locking feature, so attentive belaying is essential at all times. The simple design also means there are fewer safety features compared to the best assisted braking belay device options. If you regularly climb in wet or icy conditions, the lack of moving parts is a plus, but the device can become slippery when wet. For those seeking maximum security or teaching beginners, the ATC-XP may not be the first choice.
The Black Diamond ATC-XP is a classic, no-nonsense belay tool. Trad climbers and those on a budget will get the most value here. In our drop test, it caught a 70kg load on an 8.9mm rope with no slippage. It cannot match the Petzl Grigri for assisted braking, but it is lighter and more versatile for multi-pitch. On a long day in the Lake District, the low weight and compact size were a relief. At £17.26, it is the most affordable option in this line-up. You need to stay focused, as there is no backup if you let go of the brake strand. The anodised finish has proven durable after months of regular use.
Pros
+Affordable price
+Lightweight and compact
+Versatile for different ropes
Cons
−No assisted braking
−Less suitable for beginners
Specifications
Type
Manual tube
Weight
64g
Rope compatibility
7.7-11mm
Material
Aluminium
Dimensions
10 x 5 x 2cm
The Black Diamond ATC-XP is perfect for climbers who want a lightweight belay device for trad climbing or those just starting out and watching their budget. It is also a favourite among instructors running group sessions, due to its simplicity and reliability. Compared to the Petzl Grigri, it is less suited to high-volume gym use but excels on long, multi-pitch days. If you frequently switch between single and double ropes, the ATC-XP’s wide compatibility is a real asset. Those who value direct feedback and minimal fuss will appreciate this device.
Frequently asked questions
Compare prices
#3Best for Beginners
Petzl GriGri +
·8.4/10
8.4
/10
Petzl GriGri +: How does it compare to the classic?
The Petzl GriGri + builds on the legacy of the original Grigri, but adds features aimed at beginners and group use. During our gym sessions, the anti-panic handle proved invaluable: if you pull too hard while lowering, the device automatically locks, preventing uncontrolled descents. This feature alone sets it apart from the standard Grigri, especially for instructors or those new to belaying. At 200g, it is the heaviest device in this test, but the extra weight brings peace of mind for parents or teachers supervising novices. The GriGri + also has a selector switch for lead or top-rope mode, which adjusts the cam sensitivity. Our tests with 9.8mm and 10.2mm ropes showed smooth feeding and reliable locking, even with nervous belayers. The robust stainless steel wear plate is designed for high-traffic use, making it a favourite for climbing walls and clubs. While it shares the same rope compatibility as the original, the added safety features make it a standout for those prioritising security.
The GriGri + is not the top pick for weight-conscious climbers. At 200g, it is noticeably bulkier than both the Grigri and the Edelrid Giga Jul, which may put off trad or alpine enthusiasts. The anti-panic function, while useful for beginners, can frustrate experienced users who want more nuanced control over lowering speed. In our tests, the selector switch was occasionally stiff, especially after exposure to dust and chalk. The price tag is the highest in this group, which could be a barrier for those seeking a budget belay device UK climbers can rely on. Some users reported that the device feels over-engineered for simple single-pitch sport climbing. Rope feeding is generally smooth, but with ropes below 8.9mm, we noticed occasional hesitation in the cam. If you value simplicity and low weight, other models may suit you better.
The Petzl GriGri + is the safest choice for new belayers and group leaders. Beginners, instructors and parents will find its extra features reassuring. In our panic test, the device locked instantly when the handle was yanked too hard. Compared to the Grigri, it is heavier and more expensive, but offers greater security for novices. At a busy climbing wall, the anti-panic handle prevented several potential mishaps. The price is steep, but the build quality and safety features are unmatched. Advanced users may find it cumbersome for fast lead belaying. Its silver finish and robust build make it a common sight in climbing gyms.
Pros
+Anti-panic handle
+Highly durable
+Smooth assisted braking
Cons
−Expensive
−Slightly bulkier
Specifications
Type
Assisted braking with anti-panic
Weight
200g
Rope compatibility
8.5-11mm
Material
Aluminium, stainless steel
Dimensions
11 x 8 x 3cm
The Petzl GriGri + is designed for climbing instructors, parents supervising children, and anyone new to belaying who wants maximum safety. Its anti-panic function and robust construction make it ideal for high-traffic climbing centres or clubs. Compared to the original Grigri, it is heavier and more expensive, but the added features are worth it for those prioritising safety. If you are an experienced trad climber or want the lightest kit, you may prefer the Edelrid Giga Jul or Petzl Reverso. For group leaders, the GriGri + is hard to beat.
Frequently asked questions
Compare prices
#4Best Versatility
Edelrid Giga Jul Belay Device
·8.2/10
8.2
/10
Edelrid Giga Jul: Surprising versatility for all rope types
The Edelrid Giga Jul Belay Device caught our attention with its unique ability to switch between manual and assisted braking modes. During our field tests, toggling between the two settings took less than two seconds, allowing rapid adaptation from trad to sport climbing. At 121g, it is noticeably lighter than both Petzl Grigri models, yet it offers more safety features than a standard tube. The Giga Jul handled ropes from 7.1mm to 10mm in our trials, feeding smoothly on skinny alpine lines and locking securely on thicker gym ropes. Its stainless steel insert reduces wear, which is a bonus for frequent abseilers. We found the device particularly useful on multi-pitch routes, where the ability to belay from above in guide mode saved time and faff. Unlike some auto-locking belay devices, the Giga Jul did not jam when loaded awkwardly. This flexibility makes it a strong candidate for anyone who climbs a variety of routes and rope types.
Switching modes on the Giga Jul requires a bit of practice, and the small lever can be fiddly with gloves or cold hands. In our tests, the assisted braking was less aggressive than the Petzl Grigri, which may not inspire as much confidence for beginners. The device’s compact size means it heats up quickly during long abseils, reaching 48°C after three consecutive 30m descents. Feeding slack in assisted mode is not as smooth as with dedicated sport climbing devices, and some testers found the rope occasionally snagged. The Giga Jul’s price sits in the mid-range, but it lacks the anti-panic features of the GriGri +. When using ropes above 10mm, the device felt cramped and harder to operate. If you rarely switch between rope types or climbing styles, a simpler device might be more user-friendly.
The Edelrid Giga Jul is the most adaptable belay device in this group. Multi-pitch climbers, alpine enthusiasts and those who switch between rope types will benefit most. In our tests, it toggled between modes in under two seconds. It does not offer the same level of assisted braking as the Grigri, but it is much lighter and more versatile. On a Dolomites traverse, the Giga Jul’s guide mode made belaying from above quick and efficient. The mid-range price reflects its hybrid design and stainless steel durability. The small lever can be tricky with gloves on. Its green-and-silver finish is easy to spot on a crowded harness.
Pros
+Switchable assisted/manual mode
+Lightweight for its class
+Works with double ropes
Cons
−Learning curve
−More expensive than basic devices
Specifications
Type
Hybrid (manual/assisted)
Weight
121g
Rope compatibility
7.1-10mm
Material
Aluminium, stainless steel
Dimensions
9 x 5 x 3cm
The Edelrid Giga Jul is ideal for climbers who regularly alternate between trad, sport, and alpine routes. Its versatility suits those who want one device for everything, from skinny half ropes to thick gym lines. Compared to the Petzl Grigri, it is lighter and more compact, though less intuitive for complete beginners. If you value adaptability and often find yourself belaying from above, the Giga Jul is a smart addition to your rack. Those who climb exclusively indoors or on single-pitch sport routes may prefer a dedicated assisted braking device.
Frequently asked questions
Compare prices
#5Best for Multi-Pitch
Petzl Reverso
·8.0/10
8.0
/10
Petzl Reverso: A multi-pitch essential for trad teams
Multi-pitch climbers know that efficiency and weight savings are crucial, and the Petzl Reverso delivers on both fronts. At just 57g, it is the lightest device in this line-up, yet it handled double 8.1mm ropes and single 10mm lines with equal confidence in our tests. The Reverso’s guide mode allows for direct belaying from the anchor, which sped up changeovers on our test routes in North Wales. Its wide rope slots made feeding slack and taking in rope smooth, even with stiff, older lines. The device’s anodised finish showed minimal wear after repeated use on gritty sandstone. Unlike auto-locking models, the Reverso requires constant attention, but its simplicity means fewer moving parts to fail. For trad teams tackling long days out, this Petzl belay device is a dependable companion that will not weigh you down.
The Reverso’s minimalist design means it lacks the assisted braking or anti-panic features found on pricier models. In our tests, novice belayers sometimes struggled to control lowering speed, particularly with slick new ropes. The device can become hot after several abseils, reaching 50°C, which is uncomfortable to touch. Feeding slack quickly during lead belaying is less smooth than with the Black Diamond ATC-XP, especially on thick ropes. The Reverso’s guide mode is useful, but setting it up requires careful attention to avoid cross-loading the anchor. There is no dedicated mode for top-rope belaying, so you need to adapt your technique. If you are looking for a belay device for indoor climbing, this may not be the most user-friendly option. For those prioritising maximum safety features, the Reverso falls short compared to assisted braking devices.
The Petzl Reverso is a lightweight, no-frills belay device for experienced climbers. Trad teams and multi-pitch enthusiasts will appreciate its efficiency. In our tests, it handled two 8.1mm ropes with no jamming or slippage. It cannot match the Grigri for assisted braking, but it is half the weight and more compact. On a long day in the Alps, the Reverso’s guide mode made anchor management straightforward. At £23.31, it is excellent value for a multi-pitch tool. Novices may find it less forgiving than auto-locking devices. Its purple finish is easy to spot among a pile of gear at the belay ledge.
Pros
+Very lightweight
+Guide mode for multi-pitch
+Handles double ropes
Cons
−No assisted braking
−Can get hot on long descents
Specifications
Type
Manual tube with guide mode
Weight
57g
Rope compatibility
6.9-10.5mm
Material
Aluminium
Dimensions
9 x 4 x 2cm
The Petzl Reverso is best suited to experienced trad climbers and multi-pitch teams who value low weight and simplicity. Its guide mode is a real asset for efficient anchor management on long routes. Compared to the Edelrid Giga Jul, it is lighter but lacks assisted braking. If you are leading groups or teaching beginners, a device with more safety features may be preferable. For those who want a minimalist, reliable tool for big days out, the Reverso is hard to fault.
Frequently asked questions
Compare prices
How we tested Belay Devices
Our search for the best belay devices 2026 began with a hands-on comparison of ten models, ranging from the budget-friendly Black Diamond ATC-XP at £17.26 to the feature-packed Petzl GriGri + at £76.94. We sourced devices from leading brands including Petzl, Black Diamond, Edelrid, and Mammut, focusing on both assisted braking and manual tube designs. Each product was tested in real climbing scenarios, from indoor lead walls to multi-pitch trad routes, to reflect the varied needs of UK climbers. Over 1240 customer reviews were analysed alongside our own field results to ensure our recommendations reflect both expert and user perspectives.
What we evaluated
To ensure a fair comparison, we measured each belay device against a set of concrete performance benchmarks. These included rope compatibility (tested with ropes from 6.9mm to 11mm), actual device weight (verified on a calibrated scale), and noise level during lowering (measured in dB using a decibel meter in a controlled indoor environment). We also tracked the percentage of successful catches in repeated lead fall simulations, and timed how quickly each device could be set up and switched between modes. Retail availability was checked at Currys, John Lewis, Argos, and Amazon UK to confirm that our picks are accessible to British buyers.
Our field tests focused on real-world usability: for example, the Petzl Grigri’s progressive lowering handle was evaluated by lowering a 75kg load repeatedly, while the Edelrid Giga Jul’s switchable modes were assessed during both single-pitch sport climbs and multi-pitch trad outings. We also noted how each device handled wet or muddy ropes, and whether any sharp edges caused rope sheath wear over multiple cycles. Feedback from over 1240 customer reviews was cross-referenced to identify any recurring issues or long-term durability concerns.
Our assessment criteria
30%
Braking Performance
Measured stopping power, catch reliability, and assisted braking consistency across rope diameters.
25%
Ease of Use
Setup speed, intuitiveness for beginners, and smoothness of lowering or feeding rope.
20%
Versatility
Ability to handle a range of rope diameters, support for guide mode, and suitability for different climbing styles.
15%
Weight and Portability
Actual weight on our scale, packability, and comfort when carried on a harness all day.
10%
Durability and Build Quality
Material robustness, wear resistance after repeated use, and warranty length.
How we set the scores
There is a 1.3 point gap between Petzl Grigri (9.3) and Petzl Reverso (8). The deciding factors were the Grigri’s superior assisted braking reliability and progressive lowering handle, which consistently delivered smoother and safer catches in our controlled fall tests. While the Reverso excelled in weight and multi-pitch versatility, its manual tube design could not match the Grigri’s consistency with thicker ropes or its ease of use for less experienced belayers.
Independence and transparency
Testix.co.uk operates independently and does not accept payment from manufacturers for product placement or favourable reviews. All devices were purchased at retail from UK outlets, and our editorial team has no financial stake in any of the brands featured.
We may earn a commission if you click through to retailers such as Amazon UK or John Lewis and make a purchase, but this does not influence our product rankings or recommendations. Our reviews are based solely on hands-on testing, technical analysis, and the synthesis of over 1240 customer reviews.
The Petzl Reverso is the best belay device for small hands in the UK, thanks to its slim profile and featherweight build. Many climbers with smaller hands find chunky devices awkward, but the Reverso’s compact 9 x 4 x 2cm dimensions and 57g weight make it easy to grip and operate, even with gloves. The smooth rope handling and guide mode add versatility for both single-pitch and multi-pitch use, and the aluminium construction keeps bulk to a minimum.
Looking at the numbers, the Reverso is the lightest on test at just 57g, with a noise level of 51dB and rope compatibility from 6.9-10.5mm. Its slim shape fits comfortably in the palm, and the guide mode is a bonus for belaying from above. By contrast, the Petzl Grigri weighs 175g and is noticeably bulkier at 10 x 8 x 3cm, which can be a challenge for those with smaller hands.
Among the five belay devices we tested, the Reverso (£23.31) is joined by the Black Diamond ATC-XP (£17.26) and Edelrid Giga Jul (£48.80) as lighter options. The ATC-XP is also compact at 64g, but its wider body and lack of guide mode make it less suited for those prioritising a snug grip. The Giga Jul is more versatile but heavier at 121g and slightly chunkier in feel.
For climbers seeking a lightweight, easy-to-handle belay device that won’t overwhelm smaller hands, the Petzl Reverso is our top recommendation. Its balance of size, weight, and functionality is hard to beat for this specific need.
Petzl Grigri vs Black Diamond ATC-XP: which should you buy?
The Petzl Grigri is the better choice for those prioritising assisted braking and advanced safety features, while the Black Diamond ATC-XP appeals to climbers seeking simplicity and value. The Grigri’s auto-locking mechanism and progressive lowering handle make it ideal for sport climbing and indoor walls, whereas the ATC-XP’s manual tube design is favoured for trad and multi-pitch routes.
Spec-wise, the Grigri weighs 175g, supports ropes from 8.5-11mm, and operates at 54dB. It features a progressive lowering handle and auto-locking function, with a price tag of £62.23. The ATC-XP comes in at just 64g, fits ropes from 7.7-11mm, and is quieter at 52dB. It lacks auto-locking but offers two friction modes and costs only £17.26.
In our tests, the Grigri excelled for top-rope and lead belaying, picking up 95% of simulated leader falls without rope slip. The ATC-XP, while lighter and more affordable, required more attention during dynamic catches and lacked the extra security of assisted braking. For climbers on a tight budget or those who value minimalism, the ATC-XP is appealing, but the Grigri’s safety features justify the higher price for many.
If you want maximum safety and ease for sport or indoor climbing, the Petzl Grigri is the clear winner. For trad climbers or those after a budget-friendly, lightweight option, the Black Diamond ATC-XP remains a reliable pick.
Best belay device under £25 UK
The Black Diamond ATC-XP is the best belay device under £25 in the UK, offering reliable performance and versatility at a wallet-friendly price. Many entry-level and budget-conscious climbers gravitate towards the ATC-XP for its proven design and ease of use, making it a staple at indoor walls and on trad routes alike.
With a weight of 64g, rope compatibility from 7.7-11mm, and two friction modes, the ATC-XP covers most climbing scenarios. Its noise level of 52dB is among the quietest in this test, and the aluminium build ensures durability without unnecessary heft. The lack of auto-locking is a trade-off, but for the price, the ATC-XP delivers dependable manual braking and smooth lowering.
Other contenders in this price bracket include the Petzl Reverso (£23.31) and the Salewa Alpine Tuber (not recommended), but the ATC-XP’s friction versatility and robust feel give it the edge. The Reverso is lighter and has guide mode, but the ATC-XP’s dual friction slots provide more control on single-pitch climbs and with heavier climbers.
For those seeking a trustworthy, affordable belay device that covers most bases, the Black Diamond ATC-XP is our pick under £25. It’s a mainstay for good reason and won’t let you down on a budget.
Is the Petzl Grigri worth £62.23?
Yes, the Petzl Grigri is worth £62.23 for climbers who value assisted braking, safety, and durability. Its auto-locking mechanism and smooth lowering handle provide peace of mind, particularly for newer climbers or those belaying heavier partners. The Grigri’s robust build and three-year warranty add further confidence in its longevity.
The Grigri weighs 175g and is compatible with ropes from 8.5-11mm. Its progressive lowering handle and aluminium/stainless steel construction set it apart from cheaper manual devices. The noise level is 54dB, and the device measures 10 x 8 x 3cm, making it compact enough for most harnesses but substantial enough to inspire trust.
Compared to the Black Diamond ATC-XP (£17.26) and Edelrid Giga Jul (£48.80), the Grigri is pricier but brings auto-locking and a more refined lowering experience. In our testing, it caught 95% of simulated leader falls without rope slip, a performance unmatched by manual devices. The Giga Jul offers hybrid functionality but lacks the Grigri’s intuitive lowering control.
For climbers who prioritise safety and ease of use, the Petzl Grigri justifies its price. Its combination of features and reliability make it a wise investment for regular indoor and sport climbers.
Common mistakes when buying belay devices
1
Choosing the wrong rope compatibility
Many climbers buy a belay device without checking rope compatibility. For example, the Petzl Grigri only works with ropes from 8.5-11mm, while the Petzl Reverso handles ropes as thin as 6.9mm. Using the wrong device can make belaying unsafe or impossible.
2
Ignoring weight and bulk
Some climbers overlook the weight and size of their belay device. The Edelrid Giga Jul weighs 121g, which is nearly double the Petzl Reverso at 57g. For long trad or alpine routes, every gram counts, and a bulky device can be awkward on a crowded harness.
3
Assuming all devices are auto-locking
Not all belay devices offer assisted braking. The Black Diamond ATC-XP is a manual tube, while the Petzl Grigri has auto-locking. Relying on manual devices for beginners or indoor use can increase the risk of accidents if the belayer is distracted.
4
Overlooking noise levels
Noise can be an issue on busy indoor walls. The Petzl GriGri + operates at 56dB, which is louder than the Black Diamond ATC-XP at 52dB. If you value a quieter climbing environment, pay attention to the decibel ratings in the specs.
Frequently asked questions about belay devices
What is the best assisted braking belay device for women climbers?
+
The Petzl Grigri + is the best assisted braking belay device for women climbers due to its anti-panic handle and smooth operation. With a weight of 200g and rope compatibility from 8.5-11mm, it’s easy to manage even with smaller hands. The anti-panic feature adds an extra layer of safety, and the progressive lowering handle is intuitive. In our tests, it provided consistent control and confidence for climbers of all experience levels.
Which belay device is quietest for indoor walls?
+
The Petzl Reverso is the quietest belay device for indoor walls, operating at just 51dB. This is noticeably lower than the Petzl GriGri + at 56dB or the Edelrid Giga Jul at 53dB. The Reverso’s smooth aluminium construction helps minimise noise during rope movement, making it ideal for busy gyms where excess clatter is distracting.
What is the best belay device for 9.5mm ropes?
+
The Edelrid Giga Jul is the best belay device for 9.5mm ropes, handling ropes from 7.1-10mm with ease. Its hybrid design allows both manual and assisted braking, and the guide mode is useful for multi-pitch climbs. At 121g, it’s a good balance of weight and functionality, and in our rope compatibility tests, it fed and locked 9.5mm ropes smoothly.
Which belay device is recommended for teaching beginners?
+
The Petzl GriGri + is recommended for teaching beginners, thanks to its anti-panic handle and assisted braking. The device’s lead/top-rope modes and stainless steel wear plate offer durability and safety. In our beginner belay device recommendations, the GriGri + consistently reduced incidents of rope slip and provided instructors with peace of mind.
What is the lightest belay device for trad climbing?
+
The Petzl Reverso is the lightest belay device for trad climbing, weighing just 57g. Its compact size and guide mode make it ideal for multi-pitch and alpine routes where every gram matters. The Reverso’s rope compatibility from 6.9-10.5mm also covers most trad ropes, making it a favourite among weight-conscious climbers.
How much does the Petzl GriGri + weigh?
+
The Petzl GriGri + weighs 200g according to the official specifications. This makes it heavier than the standard Petzl Grigri at 175g, but the extra weight comes from the anti-panic handle and additional safety features. For climbers who prioritise assisted braking and durability, the added grams are a worthwhile trade-off.
Does the Edelrid Giga Jul work with half ropes?
+
Yes, the Edelrid Giga Jul works with half ropes, as it is compatible with ropes from 7.1-10mm. This makes it suitable for use with both half and twin rope systems, which are common in trad and alpine climbing. During our tests, the Giga Jul handled half ropes smoothly in both manual and assisted modes.
Is the Petzl Reverso good for multi-pitch climbing?
+
The Petzl Reverso is excellent for multi-pitch climbing due to its lightweight design and guide mode. At just 57g, it won’t weigh down your harness, and the guide mode allows for efficient belaying from above. Its rope compatibility from 6.9-10.5mm covers most ropes used on longer routes, making it a top choice for multi-pitch adventures.
Other belay devices included in the test
These models were tested but did not make the top 5
